Balder and Joost, both live in Amsterdam when they're not travelling the world. While they know each other for years, it was still a big challenge to travel together. Preparation of the Tokelau Voyage started months ahead by choosing the right schedule, and the right time to go. They prepared and packed and planned to visit an island resembling Fantasy Island or Bounty Island? (no link to the chocolate bar). The diary starts in Apia, capital of the country of Western Samoa.

Part 6: Fakaofo - Where are you going?

On each atoll of Tokelau there is one burning question: where are you going? In Tokelauan language: Koi fano ki ver?, the question implicates meddlesome ness and you like to answer with: what business is that of yours. However the question is asked out of interest. You have to understand that Tokelau is a rough place to live and sometimes you need a helping hand.

One day on the island of Fakaofo I came along two schoolboys who were out fishing on the reef with a fishing rod. Before they could ask me I asked them where they were going, no answer - no English. The boys were very handy in fishing and they made catching fish look easy. With my hand and feet I tried to explain that I wanted to try the fishing and so I grabbed the fishing rod and put a small piece of Tuna as bait on the hook. The two boys were laughing at me and handed me a bigger piece of bait, probably they thought the more bait on the hook the bigger the fish they could catch. I did it my way and in no time I had a fish: a small reef fish, but not worth eating. I heard the boys laughing. In a second try the rod got me no luck either; the hook got stuck. Perhaps I was better of not trying. I felt a little bit embarrassed. Fishing out on the reef wasn't that easy as I thought. Walking away they asked me: Koi fano ki ver? I pointed to my place and said: I am going home. One of the two boys gave me a big white reef fish and explained it was for me. Later on I understand that's what Inati is all about: sharing.